The All-Occasions Watch: Lorier Neptune IV

For hopeless romantics who love mid-century design and want a watch that looks and does the part.

A Swiss Army Knife has endured because it can do most things required of a knife—and more. The same is true for the popularity of the SUV over the last 20 years. We, humans, like objects that can do lots of different things well. Like any piece of design, it will be full of compromises. Life is all about tradeoffs in order to get what we want.

But sometimes you don’t have to compromise to get what you want. Enter the Lorier Neptune IV dive watch. It’s a timepiece steeped in mid-century design while having a look all its own. The value packed into this 39mm watch beats most offerings at 6x the price. I don’t think “value” is this watch’s greatest value—I believe its ability to adapt to all situations is what makes this timepiece so special. 

Backstory

Lorier is a watch company based in New York City consisting of the husband-and-wife team of Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega. The company’s principles are: 1. Be exceptional in design; 2. Put performance over prestige; 3. Make watches to be worn. 

I was initially introduced to Lorier through the Urban Gentry YouTube channel. I’m a fan of TGV’s reviews because I believe he genuinely loves watches for what they are and not what they’re worth. So when he gave a glowing review of the original Neptune I was instantly curious. 

The Neptune is currently in its fourth generation of design. At its core, the design is a nod to mid-century dive watches like the Rolex Submariner ref. 6538, Omega Seamaster ref. CK14755, and the Blancpain Bathyscaphe ref. MC4. By studying those references, you can definitely see the inspiration.

Neptune IV Specs and Dimensions

Specifications:

• Miyota 9015 automatic movement, 28,800 bph

• 316L marine-grade stainless steel case

• Water resistant to 200 meters / 660 feet

• Screw-down crown

• 120-click unidirectional bezel

• Dome Hesalite crystal

• Superluminova BGW9 luminous

• 316L marine-grade stainless steel bracelet with solid end links

• Fully articulating solid links secured by screw pins

• Push-button clasp with 3 micro-adjustment slots

Dimensions

• 39mm case width

• 10.3mm case thickness + 2.4mm dome crystal

• 46mm case length / lug-to-lug

• 20mm lug width tapers to 16mm at the clasp

If you’re a nut for proportion and balance then this watch should be up for consideration. I think the Neptune hits the sweet spot for so many watch enthusiasts. The longer I’ve been into watches the more I crave watches that are comfortable and wearable. I don’t care how cool a watch looks, if it’s uncomfortable then you won’t wear it. Ergonomics are essential for designing a great product.

The Neptune Is an All-Occasions Watch

What I love most about the Neptune is its ability to be used in any situation. I wear mine with a nice dress shirt or with a T-shirt and shorts. The size of the watch enables it to hide under a shirt cuff—even while on a NATO strap. The watch looks great on a bracelet, rubber strap, NATO strap, and leather band. I can wear this watch anywhere and in any situation. I wouldn’t think twice to wear it on a run or to a wedding.

For some people, this isn’t a big selling point because they own several watches. But not everybody has disposable income so a do-it-all watch is a big appeal. The price point of the Neptune—if you can get one—is extremely appealing. For $500 you get an extremely capable watch that looks the part without being an homage. 

I need a watch that can adapt to different situations with ease. I’m a father of young children and they tend to be messy and need lots of cleaning. So being able to subject my watch to different liquids is critical. I’ve found myself wearing my more delicate watches less as my kids grow older. 

What I Love About the Neptune

The size of Neptune makes wearing it an absolute pleasure. It’s small but still has enough presence on the wrist to be noticed. I’m done wearing a hockey puck on my wrist. The 10.3mm case thickness makes wearing it on a NATO slim without being top-heavy. 

Lorier took the purist’s route by using a domed plexiglass crystal over the ubiquitous sapphire that every other dive watch uses. Again, some people may see this as a negative but it was a top selling point for me. I love the look of a plexiglass crystal because it refracts the light in a unique way that sapphire can’t. The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is my favorite wristwatch and its Hesalite plexiglass crystal is what makes that piece unique. I don’t mind that plexiglass scratches easily. I welcome the scuffs and scratches because it gives the watch character. It shows that it lives a life outside of the watch box.

Oversized crowns are cool. I know crown guards have a useful purpose but seeing a big crown on the case side harkens back to a simpler time. I’m glad more watches are using larger crowns because they also make manipulating the movement easier. Plus, it gives brands a nice canvas to display their logo.

The Neptune is the first watch I’ve owned with a Miyota 9015 automatic movement. I know the Seiko NH34 is all the rage but I’m over that movement. And I’m glad Lorier has moved away from it. The 28,800 bph (4Hz) sweep of the second hand is reminiscent of watches with a crown or a shield on their dials. 

Look at that delicious light refraction caused by the domed plexiglass crystal.

Things I’d Change on the Neptune

As I mentioned above, compromises are part of any product. Luckily, for the Neptune, there aren’t many things I would change. Let me preface my points by stating that the watch is an absolute steal at $500. In order for Lorier to keep the watch at an affordable price they had to make compromises. It’s not a fault of the watch, it’s just how it is.

The Bezel

The 120-click unidirectional bezel does its job well. I especially like the addition of lume on the numbers and markers. My complaint with the bezel though is how light the rotation is. I would have liked a bit more resistance. I’ve owned a couple of Tudor Black Bay divers and the bezel action on those watches was perfect. Granted, those watches cost more than $3,000. But I’ve handled affordable dive watches that have a pleasant bezel action too, so it’s not impossible.

I could be totally off base with my opinion because I’ve never handled a vintage dive watch. The bezel action could have been lighter 60 years ago. If that’s the case then Lorier is spot on. 

The Bracelet

The bracelet is an improvement over previous versions of Lorier watches. I owned the original Gemini and didn’t like the bracelet that came with it. The Neptune IV has a much better bracelet but I still think it misses the mark. Unlike bezels, I like unsubstantial bracelets, especially on vintage watches. I’ve handled a few older Omegas and Rolexes and I love how rattly their bracelets are. The Neptune’s bracelet is too solid for what it is. Fortunately, there are great aftermarket options available. I fitted an Uncle Seiko 1171 bracelet to my watch and it felt and looked the part of a vintage dive watch.

Final Thoughts on the Lorier Neptune IV

I am surprised by how much I like this watch. I’ve been wearing it almost daily for a month and I don’t have any intention of trading it out for something else. The single best aspect of this watch is its wearability. I strap it on at 8 a.m. and don’t take it off until 8 p.m. I never find it intrusive or uncomfortable. It’s there ticking away, ready for when I need it.

The Neptune’s versatility is why I think it has gotten so much positive press. Lorier wants its watches to be worn for all occasions. Oftentimes a company will position a product a particular way but it's never actually used like how you see it in marketing materials. I think a perfect example of this is with any modern Rolex advertisement. Sure, you can take a Submariner diving but who actually does? I guess you could take an Explorer II spelunking but I’ve never heard of anyone doing it.

That’s not an indictment on Rolex or any other luxury brand, it’s just that some watches are expensive and people don’t want to beat them up when they could use something less expensive. And that’s where the Lorier Neptune makes so much sense. You get all of the charm, specs, and usability of a heritage brand at a relatively low price. I don’t think twice about wearing mine while doing yard work or playing with my kids. I definitely think twice about what I’m doing with an Omega strapped to my wrist.

If status and prestige are what you look for in a watch then I would look elsewhere. But if you’re one of the hopeless romantics who love mid-century design and want a watch that looks and does the part, you couldn’t do much better than a Lorier.